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Legal Limit Amp Project
 


Legal Limit The Easy Way

This simple to build, inexpensive amp is capable of running 1500 watts out without stopping to take a breath. And, although designed around a tube that may be purchased quite cheaply on the used market, it's flexible enough to accommodate a number of other power triodes and tetrodes as well. I have successfully built two versions of this amp, and presently use it on a regular basis. What makes it work is the simplicity of design. Placing the grids directly to ground and keeping the input circuit as simple as possible is key to its success. Additionally, the design does not employ an ALC circuit, which, in my opinion, is most often a source of needless grief. A superior resource that I use on a regular basis - my ham bible, or sorts - is listed at *Reference Materials. It provides, in simple, understandable terms, every detail any ham may need to both design and build a vast variety of equipment.

The circuit outlined here was originally designed around a pair of tetrodes that were utilized by Collins in their "big gun", throughout the 50s'. Initial tests proved astounding, near 1500 watts out, key down, with less than 60 watts of drive. Tuning, however, was critical and any mismatch required a dramatic reduction in power. To alleviate this problem, heavier tubes were selected. When these were combined with small design modifications, not only did the amplifier perform as well as the original configuration, but became far easier to tune and readily tolerated a moderate mismatch.

The power supply for this amplifier must be capable of delivering 2800 volts DC, at 2 amps, key down. Due to the potential size and heft of the transformer and associated filter components, it is recommended that no attempt be made to incorporate it with the amplifier in a single chassis. Instead, the power supply should be built in a separate chassis, and placed on four quality casters. The amplifier chassis may then either be placed on top of the power supply, or in the operating console, with the supply stowed underneath.


Click on for Full Page Schematic

The amplifier circuit, is quite simple. Tricky bells and whistles have been omitted in favor of a basic circuit capable of many hours of maintenance free operation. The tetrodes in the circuit are in parallel, requiring approximately 85 watts to drive. There is a degree of mismatch in the input circuit on all bands. This does not present a problem if the rig used to drive the amp uses tube finals in combination with a pi or pi-l network. If the finals are solid state, on the other hand, a matching network will be needed between the driver and amplifier input in order to drive the tubes to full power.

The filaments are wired in parallel and use a common bi-filar choke to isolate the filament transformer secondary from RF. In addition, generous use of bypass capacitors aid in avoiding feedback and self oscillation in the input circuit.

Switch S1 controls AC to the filament transformer and prevents applying B+ to the tubes before the filament has been lit.

S2, when open, disables the driving transceiver from switching K2 in and out. Relay, K2, externally switched by a spare set of contacts in the driving transceiver, controls antenna change over and the plate current limiting resistor. When K2 is open, the antenna bypasses the amplifier, and places the plate current limiting resistor between the center tap of T1 and the B- supply. This limits the idling plate current to 75-80 ma. When K2 is closed, the transceiver is connected to the amplifier input, the antenna is connected to the amplifier output, and the plate current limiting resistor is shorted.

The meter circuit at M1, permits selective monitoring of either high voltage, or plate current. Meter, M2, monitors grid current and relative RF out. Grid current is monitored by metering a shunt between B- and ground. The relative power indication is obtained through the use of a sampling circuit on the antenna side of L2.

The pi-network functions extremely well in matching a limited load variation. However, harmonic attenuation suffers somewhat above 40 meters. To avoid problems, care must be taken to ensure that the amplifier is not over-driven. Over driving the amplifier will increase the IMD products and spurious emissions. Of course, an ALC circuit would be helpful. However, careful adjustment will accomplish the same goal without many of the problems that accompany ALC circuitry.


Constructing the amplifier is relatively straightforward. Consideration must be given to adequate ventilation. The tubes require forced air cooling. It is necessary that air be forced up through the tube sockets and around the base of the envelopes. In addition to running air through the bases, it is necessary to run air across and around the glass envelopes as well. The use of a moderately forceful base blower and tube chimneys represents one workable approach. Another, would be to use a muffin fan to blow the bases, and another to move air past the envelopes, such as that employed in the illustration above.

Considering the height of the tubes and the necessity to mount them upright, one the most efficient layouts involves a tiered frame, similar to that above. The frame is constructed of angled, and 1X2 inch, aluminum tube-stock. A piece of rigid aluminum sheet, combined with two sections of tube stock, one on each side, forms the base plate. Angle stock is cut, drilled and bolted to form a box frame, which is firmly attached to the base. Sheet aluminum is then used to form the sides, top, front and back of the cabinet.

Brackets are attached at mid-frame to support a tier, or top rack, upon which mount SW3, L1, L2, C13, K2, and the RF sampling circuit for the M2. Shaft extensions carry control of SW3 and C13, from their positions on the top rack, to the front panel. Across the rear third of the top rack is a shield that runs to the top of the cabinet, formed from sheet aluminum. This isolates the relay and sampling circuit from the strong RF present in and around the tank circuit.

On the base plate, mounts a shield formed from sheet aluminum, that extends from the base plate to the bottom side of the top rack. The effect of this shield is to protect the filament transformer and associated control circuitry from RF present around the tubes.

The tube sockets are mounted on a 5 wide by 1.5 inch high channel that spans the width of the amplifier, and rests on the base plate. The channel may be formed from a piece of aluminum. Inside the channel, is placed the bi-filar choke and input capacitors. The base plate immediately beneath the tube sockets is cut and drilled to accommodate a muffin fan, which is then mounted on the bottom side of the base plate. The effect is to blow air from beneath the chassis, up through the tube sockets and around the base of the tubes. It also serves to reduce any heating that may occur in and around the bi-filar choke.

The front panel has a cut out that serves two purposes; it provides a view of the tubes in operation, and permits air drawn out the back of the chassis to flow around the envelopes. Grounded hardware cloth or other metallic grill material should be used to retain proper shielding. To avoid a pressure lock that would restrict the free flow of air, the fan used on the back panel must have a greater capacity than the fan used under the tube sockets, and must be positioned to draw air from the chassis.

As mentioned, this is merely intended to provide an idea of how a chassis may be built, quite inexpensively and is a design that I have used successfully. However, as long as careful attention is given the placement of parts and steps are taken to isolate the input from the intense RF present at the output of the amplifier, a wide variety of layouts are possible. Regardless of the layout, however, the following caveats may help avoid problems.

 

  • The input and output circuits must be sufficiently isolated from one another.
  • Tubes similar to those employed in the designs illustrated on this page must be mounted vertically. Attempting to mount them horizontally may cause the filaments to sag and short.
  • Filament voltage must be +/- .2 volts. Filament leads must be as short as possible, and of a conductor capable of handling the current required.
  • The ventilation holes in the tube sockets must provide for the unrestricted movement of air to the tube base. Parts placement in and around these holes is crucial.
  • Lead lengths from the tube plate caps to RFC1 must be kept as short as possible.
  • Do not place an inductor in a position that will permit its theoretical magnetic lines of force to cut a tuning capacitor (such as would occur if they were mounted parallel to one another), or potentially interact with a tube plate.
  • When running high voltage leads, care must be taken to shield them from the intense RF that surrounds the tank circuit. When exposure may not be avoided, the liberal use of bypass capacitors should be considered.

This amplifier is extremely versatile. The design is flexible enough to permit a variety of layouts without sacrificing performance. The tubes specified in the parts list may be replaced with a number of "little sisters", including the 4-250 and 4-125. Subbing these tubes will, however, reduce performance. In addition, the taps on L1 and L2 will need to be adjusted to suit the load requirement of these tubes.

Providing sufficient air circulation must be a prerequisite to any layout that may be considered. Other than noise, there is no penalty for moving too much air. However, there is for not moving enough.
It is anticipated that the amplifier unit and power supply will be housed separately. A good quality coaxial cable (RG8 - solid) for each supply lead eliminates much of the anxiety associated with exposed high voltage leads. However, effort should be made to keep the leads as short as practically possible.
The meters are both 0-100 uA panel mount units. M1 measures Plate Voltage (0-10 KVDC) and Plate Current (0-900 MA). M2 measures relative output and Grid Current. The necessity to monitor grid current, per this design, is minimal at best.


As with any amplifier, the keys to avoiding problems are 1) keep all unshielded RF leads as short as possible, and 2) keep the power supply properly isolated and all leads thoroughly bypassed.


L1 and L2 should be mounted at right angles to one another. When wiring SW3, the 80 meter position should permit the Pi-Net to use all of both L1 and L2. In the 40 meter position, SW3 should short out the 10 turns of L2, on the output side of that inductor. In the 20 meter position, SW3 should short 15 turns of L2 on the output side of that inductor, leaving L1 plus the 4.5 turns of L2 that are closest to it. In the 15 meter position, SW3 should short out 17 turns of L2, leaving L1 plus the closest two and a half turns of L2. The taps, as described, are estimates. Depending upon the placement of L1 and L2, and the proximity of other parts, the taps may need to be adjusted as much 3/4 of a turn, one way or another. Adjustment to L1 should be made by slightly compressing or expanding its length.


An excellent way to go about determining the precise tap location is to lightly solder a small clip to the end of the switch lead. It may then be relocated between adjustment cycles to determine the location that properly loads the tube. When working with the amplifier to establish the proper tap location, be certain that the high voltage is off and sufficient time has elapsed to permit the filter capacitors to drain. Additionally, use only the minimum amount of power necessary, and key-down for only short periods of time (no longer than 10 seconds). Once the proper tap position is located increase the power and go through the loading procedure. As a reference, with 100 watts of drive on 40 Meters, at 2800 volts (key down), into a viable load, with less than a 2:1 VSWR, plate current should dip to around 650 MA, with only a slight blush on the plates of the tubes.


When tuning this amplifier, it is suggested that the builder begin with a small amount of drive and increase it in steps. Use the plate current indicator to find the initial dip, and then rely primarily on the relative output meter to establish peak power settings. This approach will reduce the possibility of VHF/UHF parasitic damage to the grids and virtually eliminates the necessity to monitor grid current during tune-up.

Plan change: Due to the grid voltage generated across R2, R1 and its corresponding relay connection should be eliminated, leaving the center tap of T1 connected directly to the junction of R2 and R9. The result will be an idling current of approximately 80MA, and better overall voltage regulation.

Component values are as follows:

 

  • C1 - C3 = .01 uF Mica @ 1KV
    C4 - C11 = .01 uF Disk Ceramic @ 1 KV
    C12 = 150 pF Transmitting Variable @ .07" Plate Spacing
    C13 = 1100 pF Variable (3 section broadcast type will work if in good condition)
    C14, C16 = 350 uF Electrolytic @ 250 VDC
    C15 = .001 uF Disk Ceramic @ 6 KV
    C17 - C18 = 500 pF "Door Knob" Transmitting Cap @ 10 KV
    D1 = 1N34A or Equiv - Small signal diode
    D3 = 1N4005 or Equiv - 600 PIV @ 1Amp
    J1 - J2 = SO 239 Chassis Connectors (may be part of coax relay)
    K1 = 100 VAC SPDT - Contacts rated at 5 Amps
    K2 = 12 VDC DPDT - Contacts rated at 1 Amp
    K3 = 12 VDC Coaxial Relay -
    A DPDT Ceramic Relay may be subbed if input and output can be suitably isolated
    L1 = 10 Turns, .25" OD Copper Tubing, 2 TPI on a 1.5" Form, 5" Long
    L2 = 19.5 Turns, 1/8" OD Copper Tube, 4 TPI on a 1.5" Form, 4.75" Long
    L3 = 3 Turns - No.12 Solid Copper, spaced 1/8 th above and around R9.
    M1 - M2 = 0-100 uA Panel Meter - See Parts is Parts on meter rescaling.
    R1 = 10K @ 10 Watts
    R2 = 25 Ohm @ 10 Watts
    R3 = 1500 Ohm @ 2 Watts
    R4 - R5 = 47 Ohm Carbon @ 5 Watts
    R6 = 25 K Carbon @ 1 Watts
    R7 = 1.5 K @ .5 Watts
    R8 = 12 K @ .5 Watts
    R9 = .24 Ohm Shunt Resistor
    R10 = 5 Ohm 10 Watts
    R11 - R15 = 2 Meg @ 2 Watts
    RFC1 = 87 turns of No.18 enameled wire, space wound 4 inches long, on a 3/4 by 6 inch rigid Teflon or ceramic form.
    RFC2 = 30 Amp Bifilar wound Filament Choke - See Parts is Parts for complete instructions on winding this choke.
    RFC3 = 2.5 mH RF Choke
    SW1 - SW2 = SPST Switch - Rated 110 VAC @ 1 Amp
    SW3 = 5 Position Single Pole Heavy Duty Ceramic Rotary Switch.
    SW4 - SW5 = SPDT Switch - Rated 110 VAC @ 1 Amp
    T1 = Primary 110VAC - Secondary 5 VAC, CT, @ 30 Amps
    T2 = Primary 110 VAC - Secondary 12 VAC @ 1 Amp
    V1 - V2 = 4-400C (may also use 4-400A)

  • NOW FOR THE HV SUPPLY

    Click on for Full Page Schematic

    Above is the schematic for the standard HV linear supply.

    The diode stack is a typical bridge, utilizing equalizing resistors and capacitors. There is a school of thought, that although I agree with, I have never employed. It is simply, if care is taken in the purchase of the diodes, all from a single lot, with identical specifications, the use of the equalizing resistors and capacitors will not be necessary. Additionally, in the alternative, a single HV diode could be employed for each leg.

    Capacitors C1-18 are filter caps, that may be purchased inexpensively and combined to provide at least 20 MFD, for SSB operation. Their values are specified on the parts list, available below.

    Two switches and accompanying relays are utilized to power up the supply. The first switch, SW1, applies voltage through the surge resistor, and may be followed up with SW2, 5-10 seconds later. These permit the filter capacitors to partially fill at a lower current rate, extending the life of the power transformer. Of course a timed circuit could be developed to eliminate the necessity to engage the second switch, at a slight premium in cost.

    Resistor, R2, the bleeder resistor needs to be fairly stout, 50-100 Watts. Units in the 50 watt range may be used with a small fan, strategically located in the power supply chassis.

    Except for the diode, and filter capacitor stacks, wiring will be point to point. The chassis for the power supply will need to be shielded, and the transformer core securely grounded. The unit will be quite heavy. A cheap, easy and relatively attractive means of housing the unit is to obtain the metal outer cover from an expired air-conditioner or similar large appliance, build a fortified plywood base to fit it; secure a front/back panel to the plywood base, and attach a set of four or five casters on the bottom. Staple copper hardware cloth, available at most hardware stores, on the plywood base, and make several connections to ground. Switches and indicator lamps may be mounted on an aluminum plate, and the plate fastened over a cut-out in the box. Paint the cabinet with a color of your choice and it should look quite attractive.

    Lead outs may employ UHF connectors (Teflon dielectric only), together with RG8U coax, of the solid dielectric variety. In light of its lower break-down voltage, foam coax should not be used. Paint the exterior of the B+ connectors red, to avoid any confusion.

    The corresponding supply circuit is designed to power a grounded grid linear amplifier running the legal limit, but may be used for a variety of others as well. The design is relatively simple and virtually all the parts should be obtainable at the local level.

    When building the supply, extreme care must be taken to properly insulate all components on the secondary side of the transformer. This includes the electrolytic capacitors, which may have the negative lead attached to the outside "can" of each. I cannot stress this enough - 2500-3000 volts can produce incredibly dangerous and destructive arcs without exceeding the current rating of breakers and fuses. For example, an arc of moderate intensity, for a relatively short duration will look very similar to AC and will likely destroy most components on the dc side of the supply, to say nothing of the fireworks that will ensue. I can attest to the destruction - been there, done that!

    Remember also that death is the likely outcome if you come in contact with the voltage produced on the secondary side of the transformer - whether it is on or off! Before attempting to work on the supply, always make sure that the capacitor bank has been properly discharged.

    The supply components are as follows:


     

    C1 - C18 = Filter block capable of providing a minimum of 20uF and preferably at least 45uF @ 1.15 times the secondary voltage of T1. For example, 6 - 350 uF electrolytics at 450VDC each. Note that each capacitor requires a 50 K 10 W swamping resistor (not indicated in schematic) across its terminals.
    C19 - C39 = .01 uF Disk Ceramic @ 1KV
    D1 - D20 = 1000 PIV @ 2 Amp
    K1 - K2 = 120 VAC SPDT Relay - 5 Amp Contacts
    PL1 = 110 VAC Pilot Light W/Socket
    R1 = 50 Ohm wirewound @ 25 Watts
    R2 = 75K - 80K @ 100 Watts (may be 50 watts if forced air cooled)
    R3 - R22 = 470 K Carbon @ 1 Watts
    T1 = Primary 110 VAC - Secondary 2400 VAC @ 300ma. (Any unpotted power transformer producing these voltages that weighs in the neighborhood of 25 pounds up.)
    SW1 - SW2 = 120 VAC SPST @ 1 Amp


    Operation of the completed unit is straightforward. The switches, however, should be placarded to ensure that both are in the off position to begin with; that SW1 is engaged first, and that a period of approximately 3 seconds transpires before SW2 is switched to the "ON" position. A good upgrade would be to automate the power-up sequence

     

     

    

 

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